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From North Africa, to the Center East, to the Indian sub-continent, to Cape Malay, Higher Union’s winter menu warms you from the style buds to the stomach, writes Lorraine Kearney.
Higher Union, within the Cape City suburb of Gardens, has been open for about 16 months now and the restaurant has actually bought into its groove, altering the menu with the seasons and by no means dropping the style ball.
As with all Chef Amori Burger’s choices, consuming this winter is an occasion. ‘Don’t simply eat as a result of you must,’ she stated. And he or she likes to share: ‘Meals for me, is this idea of sitting across the desk and sharing and consuming collectively.’
It’s a philosophy carried by means of to her winter 2024 menu, which is available in three variations. The Seasonal Chef’s Menu has two choices, every for 2 folks sharing:
Each include the home bread course, a alternative of starters, a essential with a number of sides for sharing across the desk, and a alternative of desserts and each finish with a friandise. The Backyard Menu (R650 per individual) is the vegetarian possibility; the Pasture Menu (R750 per individual) provides oysters.
Backyard menu starter
King Oyster
The home bread course contains particular person kubaneh, one per individual, and three selections of butter (mebos and Klein River Gruberg, Mont du Toit EVOO, and Cream of the Crop makhani). They’re all good, however our favorite was the Mont du Toit. Kubaneh, our Google search tells us, is a conventional Yemeni bread. Our palates inform us it’s decidedly moreish.
Or you may curate your individual meal from the listing of small plates, of which there are 17 – your meal additionally begins with the bread course. The menu advises you select 4 to 5 and share between two of you. We didn’t cease there, as a result of it truly is unattainable to decide on just some. The alternatives vary in worth from R95 for the aloo tikki with date piccalilli, 96-hour sourdough slangetjies and marigold (be warned – this dish could possibly be habit-forming), to R290 for the shuwa lamb shoulder, which comes with parsnip, pimento zhug (a spicy sizzling sauce from Yemen), Brussels sprouts and kapokbos chermoula.
Pasture menu
Kapokbos is an fragrant shrub. In English it’s often called wild rosemary, so you may think about simply how fragrant. Livestock find it irresistible, and within the Karoo it’s one of many shrubs that give the distinctive, sought-after style to the meat. You’ve heard of Karoo lamb? That’s what we’re speaking about.
First, although, a cocktail – a Cape to Casablanca for me and a Corpse Reviver No2 for my companion. It’s a splendid, although small, cocktail menu, simply as it’s a splendid, although small, wine listing. ‘I didn’t desire a boring wine listing,’ Amori stated. ‘I needed one thing you don’t see daily, extra bespoke, however not too costly.’ We had a glass of Le Chant Rouge, a signature mix of Merlot, conventional Bordeaux varietals, Shiraz and Sangiovese, from the Polkadraai Hills area in Stellenbosch.
Cape to Casablanca
Dishes, hands-down our favourites have been the aloo tikki and the paneer lovable with poppadum, coriander and apple slaw, and tamarind chutney, the slaw balancing the warmth of the tamarind. They’re adopted carefully by the king oyster mushroom with whipped tofu (it’s whipped with butter beans and is great), chilli crack, Union HP sauce and almond.
Higher Union’s winter menu is blow-out when it comes to style and delight, in addition to worth for cash – you permit very full and glad, regardless of the ‘small plates’ declare. But it surely’s definitely not blow-out when it comes to costs. All in all, a high-quality night time out.
Location: 3 Higher Union Road, Gardens, Cape City
Hours: Monday – Sunday: noon-4pm and 6pm-10pm
Public holidays: Contact Higher Union
Contact: 021 891 0360
Web site: upperunion.co.za
Instagram: @upperunion_restaurant
Fb: UpperUnionRestaurant
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