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By Tania Auby
The attribute white thatched buildings have been the very first thing I seen once we drove into Wupperthal, a stark distinction towards the dusty purple wilderness of the Cederberg.
Wupperthal, about 70km southeast of Clanwilliam and 250km from Cape City, is barely accessible through a dusty gravel highway winding via steep mountains after two German missionaries, Theobald von Wurmb and Johan Gottlieb Leipoldt (grandfather of famend author C Louis Leipoldt) settled among the many native Khoikhoi households within the valley in 1830.
The inhabitants of the village expanded when slavery was abolished in 1838 and lots of freed slaves arrived from close by farms.
In the present day, there’s the whitewashed Moravian Mission Station and some newly-built thatched-roofed buildings surrounding it. Wupperthal was well-known for its handcrafted, regionally produced veldskoen sneakers. I hankered after a purple pair made well-known by David Kramer. However this unassuming little dorpie made extra headlines in 2018 when a devasting fireplace destroyed giant components of the city.
The blaze swept via the Moravian Mission Station and destroyed the clinic, parsonage, city corridor and the college. An estimated 45 properties in Wupperthal have been additionally destroyed and greater than 200 folks have been left homeless, not lengthy earlier than the lockdown induced by Covid-19 shattered any hopes of tourism serving to the city again on its toes.
The Moravian Mission Station and different historic buildings within the centre of this small village have been not too long ago restored to their former splendour, however the vacationers have but to come back. The rebuilt veldskoen manufacturing unit stands desolate, the centre of city quiet and undisturbed. The one signal of life was Oom Woeka, patiently sitting outdoors his café and desperate to welcome anybody strolling by, patron of his retailer or not.
Right here, we purchased toasted cheese sarmies and sizzling chips earlier than chatting with Oom Woeka who informed us there are solely 5 knowledgeable shoemakers left on the town who can prepare a youthful technology.
For those who’re questioning what there’s to do in Wupperthal, right here it’s: savour the peace and quiet of the mountains. The Biedouw Valley Move that takes you there’s arguably probably the most stunning roads via the Cederberg, and the entire area has a slow-paced way of life unprecedented by most metropolis dwellers.
Wupperthal’s neighbouring village Heuningvlei is working arduous to lure guests with its personal uncommon sights. Friends can come down the Pakhuis Move on the again of a two or four-wheeled donkey cart for R140 per particular person, a bumpy experience that concludes on the Heuningvlei Backpackers Lodge, the place we stayed for the night time at a pleasant R130 per particular person.
We ended a protracted and dusty day with a much-needed braai below a full brilliant moon. The air felt pure and the night unspoilt, even by the close by braying donkeys settling down for the night time. I caught sight of the Milky Means when the total moon dropped and out of the blue the sky lit up with stars. To me, that’s motive sufficient to enterprise out right here.
Keep right here
There are some wonderful locations to in a single day (or keep longer) on this space near the caves and rock formations in the event you’re trying to discover wider. I like to recommend Cederberg Oasis, the place the homeowners Gerrit and Chantal Karsten warmly welcome visitors themselves.
Charges:
R800 per night time for a small home that sleeps 5.
They make a superb breakfast (R65) to fortify you for the day’s rock adventures and Gerrit (with 30 years of expertise within the Cederberg) will even hand-draw you a map earlier than you go on a hike.
https://www.cederbergoasis.co.za
Tel: +27 27 482 or e mail: [email protected]
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